Trend Report: Fun Shapes Are Having a Serious Moment
This summer, the jewelry world has been feeling a little less rigid.
Designers have been leaning harder into unusual cuts, asymmetry, geometric silhouettes, and stones that feel more expressive once they’re set. Alongside stronger color, we’ve been seeing a noticeable increase in requests for fancy shapes and special cuts coming through Prima as well.
Marquise cuts are stretching longer. Pears are becoming sharper. Freeform stones, slices, shields, hexagons, and geometric layouts are starting to feel less niche and much more intentional.
And the shift isn’t happening quietly.
Bario Neal recently featured a custom geometric bi-color sapphire slice ring that feels more sculptural than traditional, letting the shape of the stone lead the entire piece. Meanwhile, Reis-Nichols Jewelers highlighted a freeform opal paired with pink tourmaline in a pendant that feels organic, colorful, and slightly imperfect in the best way.
Bario Neal
Custom Geometic Bi-color Sapphire Slice Ring
Then there’s Heath London, whose work has become a favorite around Prima over the years. Her Tanzanite, Tourmaline, and Sapphire in sculptural earrings that feel like modern intersections of form and color! They are dramatic, slightly mysterious, and completely unafraid of shape! Her earrings especially lean into shape play and color relationships in a way that feels fresh without trying too hard. Nothing feels overly polished or overly safe, which is probably why the pieces feel so timeless and bold.
Heath London Fine Modern Jewels.
Stone: Tanzanite 16.78 tcw, Tourmaline 33.38 tcw, Sapphire .63 tcw
We’ve also been watching designers experiment with fancy-cut birthstone collections in a way that feels much more fashion-driven than traditional birthstone jewelry has in the past. Bill Selig from Selig Jewelers is one of the names doing this particularly well, using unexpected shapes to completely shift the mood of familiar stones. In another recent collection, he introduces geometric stacking necklaces in a mix of cuts and colors.
Bill Selig Jewelers
Geometric Stacking Necklaces
What ties all of this together is that shape is no longer just supporting the design as a small side piece; It’s becoming part of the personality of the piece itself.
And paired with strong color, the effect feels very summer 2026.
Less formal.
More expressive.
More willing to stand out a little.